Can you identify with this scenario?
You come into the salon for your haircut, and sit down with your stylist to discuss your goals. Your stylists listen to your hair woes and difficulties and together you formulate a look that will not only look and feel great but hopefully end some issues you have been having with your hair too. You enjoy your cup of coffee, relaxing massage, and good conversation while your stylist gets to work. Your stylist shows you the product they are going to use on you, you listen as they explain why and how to use the product. Your haircut is finished, and you love the way you look and how your hair feels. You purchase all the products your stylist suggested eager and ready to start a whole new hair journey at home. A day or two later you finally wash your hair and get ready to style it yourself. Everything you purchased is out and ready to go. You panic...
"Which product goes on first?"
"How much did they use?- I know they showed me..."
"Does this one go on wet or dry?"
"Do I need to air dry or blow dry this product?"
"Is this the one for my curly days?"
The questions go on and on until you throw a few pumps of something in your hair and quickly style your hair. Looking in the mirror you say to yourself " it doesn't look the same", feeling a little deflated.
We have all been there...
As stylist, we have found that 90% of the issues with home styling stem from improper product application and use. This blog is to break down how much product you should be using and in what order. This blog will break down the basics of products in a generic and average way to not be affiliated with any product line allowing you to make choices that best suit your lifestyle and budget. That being said all of these suggestions are based on Davines or Cult & King Products that we work with in the salon.
This breakdown is going to be based on the average head of hair the amount of product suggested will vary slightly if you have more or less hair. This won't be a recommendation of which product you should be using, though if you are curious reach out to your stylist for a personalized recommendation for your hair.
Step 1 - Cleansing
In your shower, you should have a shampoo and conditioner suited for your hair type, texture, and lifestyle. You should also have a mask that is used weekly(more or less as prescribed by your hair Dr.) as an alternative to your conditioner.
Shampoo - Your hair should be very wet (dripping)when applied to activate the lather. The shampoo is designed to cleanse your scalp. the application of the product should be done by using a nickel size amount of shampoo and applied on the palm of your hands. You then apply the product directly to the scalp. Avoid placing shampoo on your ends as you rinse your hair the shampoo will do the work for you.
Note- if your hair does not lather on the first time, do not worry. Just repeat the process with the same amount of shampoo until you have a lather.
Conditioner - Your hair should be rung out and no longer dripping with water. You want the conditioner to absorb and if your hair is too wet the conditioner will not have a chance to absorb preventing it from fully working. You will want to use about one quarter plus one nickel size of conditioner (yes more than shampoo). Applied on your hands and worked through your midshaft and ends of your hair only avoiding your scalp(your natural oils take care of that area) to prevent your hair from being weighed down. Allow the conditioner to stay in your hair for up to one min and rinse.
Note- You never want to rinse conditioner 100% out of your hair. You want your hair to have a slick or silky feeling to it afterward.
Mask- Your hair should be rung out and no longer dripping with water. You want the mask to absorb and if your hair is too wet the mask will not have a chance to absorb preventing it from fully working. You will want to use about two-quarters worth (yes more than shampoo & conditioner). Masks are ordinarily designed to be great for both your scalp and your ends. When applying make sure midshaft and ends of your hair first and then onto your scalp. Using a wide tooth comb thoroughly comb your hair to distribute and detangle your hair. Then allow the mask to sit as long as directed. Rinse fully.
Note- Each hair mask is designed to do different things. Timing, application, and frequency may vary and it's important to check in with your stylist on how to properly use your mask.
P.S. Regardless of your hair texture you need a conditioner. Please check out our other blog below explaining the why behind this.
Step 2- Moisture Product
Regardless of your hair type(fine, medium, or coarse), you require hydration and moisture on your midshaft and ends. Most people, especially those with fine or medium textures skip this step, but it ones of the most vital components of your hair care to maintain shine, bounce, and elasticity. You do not need to use all of these products to maintain moisture but 1 that suits your hair is needed. These include the following:
For the following applications, you will detangle your hair and divide your hair into 4 sections. Resulting in what we call a quad section. It should look like this from the top of your head.
(You do not need to clip your hair up, however, if you prefer to you can)
Leave-in Conditioner
Spray- In each section of the quad section, you will lift your hair and spray your hair from roots to ends. Do this by lifting the hair away from the head and misting it from arm's length away. Apply 3-10 sprays depending on the manufacturer's directions. Repeat in all quad sections.
Cream base- Apply a nickel size amount of leave-in conditioner onto your hands as if you were applying a hand lotion. Starting from the bottom of the hair in one quad section rake the product through your hair as you work towards your scalp. Repeat in all quad sections.
Oil - Apply a pea size amount ( most oils are very concentrated and require far less product usage). Apply oil onto your hands as if you were applying a hand lotion. Starting from the bottom of the hair in one quad section rake the product through your hair as you work towards your scalp. Repeat in all quad sections.
Serum- Apply a dime-size amount (are typically water-based and require more product used than oil). Apply serum onto your hands as if you were applying a hand lotion. Starting from the bottom of the hair in one quad section rake the product through your hair as you work towards your scalp. Repeat in all quad sections.
Amino Acid- This is a newer product to the hair world and typically comes much like a foam. Amino acid products are an alternative to oil for finer hairstyles. You want to use the size of a ping pong ball, onto your hands as if you were applying a hand lotion. Starting from the bottom of the hair in one quad section rake the product through your hair as you work towards your scalp. Repeat in all quad sections.
Balms- The heaviest of moisturizers and often time most misunderstood. Blams are designed for thick, coarse textures and are often overapplied causing an oily, or dirty look. Balms are typically more concentrated products and require less product to be used. Using a dime size amount. Apply balm onto your hands as if you were applying a hand lotion. Starting from the bottom of the hair in one quad section rake the product through your hair as you work towards your scalp. Repeat in all quad sections.
Step 3- Structure Product
These products are the ones that get the most attention and are touted as "working" the best. Structure products are designed to control, build and sustain a styling. Structured products often are made with alcohol designed to dissipate when heat is applied. Applying your moisture products under your structure products will provide a layer of defense from the alcohol in these products. If you constantly use a structured product without a moisturizer underneath you will dehydrate your hair causing your hair to be brittle, dry, and lack luster.
Primer /Heat Protectors-In each section of the quad section, you will lift your hair and spray your hair from roots to ends. Do this by lifting the hair away from the head and misting it from arm's length away. Apply 3-10 sprays depending on the manufacturer's directions. Repeat in all quad sections.
Volumizer-In each section of the quad section, you will lift your hair and spray your hair from roots to ends. Do this by lifting the hair away from the head and misting it from arm's length away. Apply 3-10 sprays depending on the manufacturer's directions. Repeat in all quad sections.
Note- Volumizers can be used on dry hair applied t the root and redried for extra hold and volume.
Mousse- If there was an award for the most poorly applied product mousse would win. Mousse should be applied directly to a paddle brush and spread through the hair. Roughly the size of a tennis ball applied directly onto the brush then tapped down the hair shaft from the root to the ends. Repeat in all quad sections.
Note: Avoid using tour hands to apply mousse it breaks down the product and prevents it from fully working.
Gel - Apply a nickel size amount of gel onto your hands as if you were applying a hand lotion. Starting from the bottom of the hair in one quad section rake the product through your hair as you work towards your scalp. Repeat in all quad sections.
Protein Products- These are products like Olaplex we often times avoid recommending. However, not all protein is created equally and some cosmetic products use proteins for structure and hold. these products range from spray to gel-type products. We suggest not purchasing a protein-based product without speaking to your stylist first. Please check out our blog that explains all the reasons behind this statement.
Step 4- Finishing Product
These products are the icing on the cake. Finishing products elevate your hair and add the extra POW -BAM to your look. Finishing products are not a necessary thing, but make all the difference when you are attempting your best salon quality hair at home. It is not neccary or recommended to pre-section your hair in quads for these products.
Hairspray- Hold from arm's length away form your head and mist. Depending on the strength f your h
air sprays you may need more or less. We recommended starting with what is called a workable hairspray to determine how strong you like your spray.
Paste/ Puddy/ Palmade/ Wax- A pea size amount emulsiphied (mushed) onto the palms of your hands and used for hold and definition. Mainly used to control or place short hair.
Texturizer/ Shine Sprays- Hold from arm's length away and mist your mid shafts and ends. Both of these products are designed for texture and can build up on the scalp.
Dry Shampoo- Applied to freshly clean hair to avoid the build up of oil. Hold from arm's length away and mist the scalp area. You can reapply dry shampoo for more body and oil absorption for days after.
Oil/Serum -A pea size amount emulsiphied (mushed) onto the palms of your hands. Starting from the bottom of the hair, rake the product through your hair as you work towards your scalp stopping before you reach your scalp.
We hope that this helped clarify a bit more on how to effectively use your products at home. Our goal in sharing this information is that you will be able to more effeciatly use your home care products and have awesome results!!
We are always here for you if you have further questions. Drop a comment down below or reach out to us vis text 732-291-8777
XO,
CHS